Okay, so i come to a stop and im about to turn when the clutch pedal goes to the floor with almost no resistance.. and when i let off it comes up a bout an inch. i can pull it back up to where it normally rests. BBbbuuuuuttttt..... The clutch engages about 2 inches from the floor and its not smooth at all. it just drops into gear. Also it is nearly imposible to put it into first gear while the car is running. So that made me think it may be a linkage problem but my grampa says that it could be one of the fingers on my pressure plat has snapped off or has a bad spring or something.

P.S. I just got the whole clutch replaced less than 700 miles ago. So im quite aggravated.

Need help fast because this is my DD and if its a simple fix please dont beat me up over it.
Thanx

Maybe a slave cylinder problem as well?

possibly slave cylinder. i had it go on me.......went to put the clutch in and it just stayed at the floor.

That was my first thought because i thought i saw something about that in the Hanes manual. But now i cant find it in there.
Would that also possibly cause the clutch to engage lower to the floor?

yeah if its leaking it will do that, its possible for the master cylinder to be bad, but I'd guess the slave first.

Be Smart change them both. Its not worth the hassle of doing the master only to have the slave cylinder go afterwards.

Precisely.

This is what? Number five in a row now or so across the various forums? Someone has pissed off the Z31 clutch deity.

Must be the cold weather in combination with the car's "old bones" causing grief.

PT

But would it just happen all at once? its been acting completely normal until today when it failed almost completely.
Is there possibly a line/hose that could have ruptured or snapped that would cause that?

Definitely a possibility. Also, could the clutch damper cause this?

Just replace both, because you have to bleed it at the slave cylinder anyways. It takes tops 30 mins or so to do. Also while you're at it you might want to bypass your damper.

http://www.az-zbum.com/modification.clutch.damper.shtml

Even after reading that page i don't see the advantage to removing the damper. How does it make the clutch feel? i like the way it is now. And if a Nissan engineer thought it was a good idea then maybe i shouldn't mess with that. lol

Even after reading that page i don't see the advantage to removing the damper. How does it make the clutch feel? i like the way it is now. And if a Nissan engineer thought it was a good idea then maybe i shouldn't mess with that. lol

1) Replace both master and slave at the same time ... it WILL save you time (and $) and aggravation.

2) All things considered .. removal of the damper mechanism is just 1 less thing to go wrong. It might be psycological (sp?), but I felt that removal of the damper made the clutch more responsive ..

The main reason I did it .. as I got a SS line from "demonspeed" (for that purpose) for a real good price when I got SS lines for my brakes.

3) Yes the problems can occur seemingly over night ... the clutch mechanism works unfortunately (?) with very low fluids .. where you might not notice the gradual loss of feel. Then all of a sudden it fails.

My recommendation .. for what its worth (lol .. not much as I'm not a mechanic nor automotive engineer) .. replace both master/slave cylinders AND the damper ..

Alright. Im actually going outside right now to jack it up and see if i can find anything such as a busted hose or supply line. Ill be back it a minute with what i find.

Don't be surprised if you don't find a single drop from a suspected leak.

The piston seals in the hydraulics can fail internally and you'll simply push the pistons through the fluid instead of the pistons pushing the fluid where it needs to go.

Not uncommon at all.

PT

The biggest reason, IMO, to replace the damper via the method AZ_ZBUM describes is to make clutch bleeding easier. I never really noticed the difference in pedal feel myself. With the damper in place you have to bleed the clutch in two different places. With it removed, you only have to bleed it in one place. Clutch bleeding sucks balls, so any way in which you can make it easier is a bonus.

Alright. There was some fluid on the slave cylinder. and i think thats my problem because i put some hydraulic fluid in the master cylinder and pressed the clutch and fluid just trickled out of the slave. Here are some pics. Sorry for the quality, I used my phone and a flashlight.

the slave cylinder

http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp16 ... 6899_0.jpg

This is the damper and it seems to be fine but but it may need replacing or removal anywho.

http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp16 ... 1036_0.jpg

Here is the slave up close.

http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp16 ... 4586_0.jpg

And this is the puddle that came from pushing the clutch pedal 3 times.

http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/pp16 ... 0298_0.jpg

Again im sorry about the quality.
Thanx

yup, there's yer problem.

the damper is expensive to replace, and a real pain to bleed. if i were you i would remove it... it's not like you can't replace it later if you don't like the feel of it.

Would it be smart to buy a new slave cylinder from Nissan, after market, or maybe off of a car thats being parted out?

Thats what the slave does when it goes.
On the damper thing, it does make it easier to bleed the clutch system.
I really cant tell the difference between when I had it and when I bypassed it. Best to do the master at the same time like mentioned before.

inqui-Z-tor, I am running the Demonspeed brake lines as well.
Time flys